St Mary’s beautiful and ancient church building is a grade two listed building.
The church spire is very special and distinctive.
There has been a place of worship on the site of St Mary’s for generations. A priest at Eastham gets a mention in the Doomsday book.
The church parish register begins in 1598 and the church contains architecture from many periods. Parts of the church were built in the 12th century from sandstone blocks. Internet sources say the nave dates mainly from the 13th century; the tower originated in the 14th century and the aisles in the 15th century. The church was heavily restored in the 1870s and 1880s.
Large areas of Eastham were once owned by the Stanley family and the side chapel of the church is known as the Stanley Chapel. Two members of the Stanley family are buried in the Stanley Chapel.
The Information is from a booklet available in church which was written by Pat Rayner with some contributions from our present Church Warden, Sue Abraham.
It is probable that many of the sites of Wirral churches are of very ancient date. These old churches were never designed, never built in the form which we see today. They grew with the development of the parish from a little wattle and daub structure standing in its Croft, beside the village, like a tiny thatched cottage, large enough to cover the altar and sacred items from rain and storm. Centuries later, with the knowledge of using sandstone blocks for building, local people used their wood axes to hew the rough sandstone into a semblance of square blocks. The church building became permanent, rough but sound and under monastic rule.
The foundation of St Mary’s is Norman. In 1152, the church was originally in the parish of Bromborough. It was then given, by Earl Randal of Chester, to the Abbot and Convent of St Werburgh. He had built a church at Eastham, dedicated to St. Mary; it was considered to be a chapel to St Barnabas in Bromborough, the mother church.
The heavy oak entrance door leads into the South Porch which is 16th century. Unbaptised people were not allowed into the church back then, therefore many weddings and baptisms took place in the porch. Bread was left on a shelf in the porch for the poor to help themselves. In the 1870’s bread was still being distributed on Sundays to those in need as part of the legacy at Stoak of Henry Marsh who died in 1709.
A modern door leads from the South Porch into the South Aisle. This aisle and the South Wall were built during the period 1377-1485 during the reign of Richard II to Henry IV, as were the tower and chancel. Adjoining this door to either side, on the south wall, there are inscribed the names of the Bishops of Lichfield and Coventry Diocese from 656 to 1534, also those of Chester from 1541 to the present day and Vicars of the Parish from 1316 to the present day.
Next to the list of vicars, on the South Wall, is one of the many stained glass windows designed by Charles Eamer Kempe. It depicts Jesus among the elders in the temple and was installed in 1895. It is dedicated to Henry Berley Chambres who died on Ash Wednesday in 1895.
Adjacent to this, on the west wall, a window by Kempe represents the Annunciation. It has a richness of quality in the colouring. To the right of this window is an old door which leads into the 1912 extension which provides toilets and a small kitchen.
The Baptistry
A few paces forward along the West Aisle, the steps to the left lead to the Baptistry. It was in 1892 that the base of the tower was converted into the present Baptistry with a cemented floor on iron girders. The Saxon font was moved from the south aisle by the south doorway and set onto it. This font is believed to have stood in the original building of the twelfth century. It would have been in the porch since unbaptised people were not allowed into the church!
Before modern medicine, people believed that water blessed in the font could heal people. There was a superstition in the medieval age that the font water could be used for magical purposes so it was often stolen. Thus in 1236 the Archbishop of Canterbury ordered that fonts were to be kept locked under seal. The present cover is stored at the rear of the Baptistry. There was a drain from the font to a hole in the churchyard wall covered by a small grill for people to dip their fingers in. Of the surviving fonts in Wirral churches, Eastham comes an easy first. Fonts would have existed outside the church from IXth century and those which survived are the circular, without ornament, as at Eastham.
The two wooden candlesticks in front of the font were crafted by Robert (Mouseman) Thompson, a British furniture maker. He set up a business in his place of birth, North Yorkshire. He carved a mouse on almost every piece, including these candlesticks.
In the west window of the tower (Baptistry) there is a fine example of. Kempe’s work in the two-light window picturing St. Michael and St George. It represents ‘Victory over Evil – Warring against the Dragon and Victory over the Dragon’ (1890). The stonework of this window is deeply splayed, which shows the transition from Norman to Gothic which is typical of Early English architecture. A brass plaque on the right hand side wall of the Baptistry explains that this window, in 1890, replaced one depicting The Annunciation which was presented by Mr Edward Grey in 1862. This window was then gifted to St Paul’s Church, Rhosesmor, Flintshire and was probably fitted during a period of reordering of St Paul’s in the late 1880’s.
The pictures hung in the Baptistry were gifts from parishioners from 1840 onwards. The oak panelling was carved from pew ends which were removed in 1876.
The Bell Tower
Above the Baptistry is the Bell Tower housing six bells which are rung tunefully before each service. A single bell rope can be seen hanging in the Baptistry. This is rung for the five minutes before the service begins. The tower was rebuilt in 1752. Within the tower the bells are suspended in a framework kept clear of the walls to minimise the possibility of the sound waves shaking and disintegrating the tower masonry. There is a ring of six bells, four of which were cast by Abel Rudhall, the well-known Gloucester bell founder, in 1757. Inscriptions on the bells include:
- “When we ring we sweetly sing.”
- “I to the church the living call.”
- “And to the grave I summon all.”
The first record of any bells at St Mary’s is in the Edwardian inventory (Edward VI) of about 1549. There is no other record of bells until 1751 when the bell founders, Abel Rudhall, were consulted. They suggested that the four bells be melted down and the metal used to cast five new bells. This was completed in 1757. By 1881 these bells were in need of repair again. They were recast by Taylor’s of Loughborough who added a tenor bell, the heaviest, weighing 628 kg. All six bells were again recast by Taylor’s in 1922.
In the 1600’s and 1700’s a gallery of boxed seating existed at the west end of St Mary’s, in front of where the Baptistry is now. They were reserved for rich parishioners who paid for their use. There was also a wooden musicians’ gallery placed in front of the Baptistry arch. In 1774 a bassoon was bought to accompany the singers in the parish. It was played by a Mr John Woodward, the church clerk. In 1829 a bass fiddle was bought, which was played by John’s father, and a clarinet was also bought. By 1842 the choir was taught by a Mr Mousdale. Later a harmonium, placed near the gallery, was used and then replaced in 1865 by an organ which was played by a Mr Frank Healing. The bellows were blown by a Joseph Davies. By the 1850’s many of the box pews had become dirty and mouldy. In 1874 new oak pews were installed.
From the steps of the Baptistry, the view of the Nave, (the central part of the church) and the Chancel beyond the steps, can be appreciated. The nave dates from the 13th century. It is a four-bay nave with north and south wide aisles.
When Wirral churches were first founded, pews had not come into existence and the worshippers stood or knelt on a hard damp floor of clay or stone. A stone bench might have been against the north, south and west walls. The porch always had seats so that those who travelled a distance could enjoy a rest before the service. Later, straw mats were introduced for kneeling. Straw and rushes were strewn on the floor, even after pews had been introduced.
In 1898 small triangular clerestory windows, high up in the walls of the nave, were greatly enlarged upwards and filled with the present series of four Greek and four Latin Fathers by Kemp. Also at that time the texts written on the walls were removed. The original windows were gifted by eight ladies of the parish around 1854.
Continuing left from the Baptistry is the North Aisle. By 1876 the organ and old vestry had been removed from the north-west end for the rebuilding of the disintegrating north wall. This was decided at a meeting in 1876 after the architect, Mr D. Walker, declared it to be in a dangerous state. The north aisle was boarded off; the old seats were removed and the roof shored up and work began to pull down the wall.
In the course of removal of the pews and flooring of the north aisle, one of the bases of the pillars was laid bare, revealing the proper level of the church. This was at least one foot below the present level. The level was restored before the new pews were fitted.
The stonework of the new windows along the north aisle was inserted and a buttress built to join the Norman wall of the Stanley Chapel to the new wall of the north aisle. At the opposite end, in the north-west corner, a rotted door was removed and replaced with sandstone blocks. A local craftsman involved in the work was Thomas Woodward, brother of John Woodward, a Church Warden and stonemason, who owned a sandstone quarry nearby. Thomas repaired the arches, fitted windows and pointed the glass inside and outside to secure them. Thomas also completed work on the new altar steps. It is recorded that the cost of the work on the steps included that of hiring a railway carriage to carry the new stone to Bromborough station and the cost of carriage to St Mary’s from the station, plus labour costs. The total was £51.13s 2d.
Along the rebuilt north wall, a series of five windows by Kempe, considered to be his finest work, were installed. They are a series of Old Testament Heroes arranged in chronological order under the title of Patriarchs, Judges, Priests, Kings and Prophets. Beginning at the west (Baptistry) end, the first is a two-light window representing Abraham holding the roll of the covenant and Noah carrying a miniature ark. The second has three lights picturing Moses with the Table of the Commandments, Joshua in armour, bearing the device of a sun and moon upon his shield (Joshua X, 12,13) and Samuel with a roll of the law and a horn of consecrating oil. The third pictures Aaron with his breastplate, rod and censer, Melchizedek with orb and sacrificial vessels and Zacharias in the official priestly dress. A plaque underneath the third window commemorates ten children of Thomas Trevor, vicar of Eastham for thirty years. He died in 1827, two of his children died in infancy, five in their teens and one lived until aged twenty eight. The fourth window in the series represents three principal kings of the Old Testament, David bearing a psalter and harp, Solomon, a sceptre and book of wisdom and Hezekiah, a sceptre and sundial. The fifth window pictures two great prophets, Elijah and Isaiah. The third figure is Daniel and the Apocalyptic book.
On the wall, just before the steps to the Stanley Chapel, is a panel bearing the Royal Coat of Arms of George III. This was formerly housed in the bell chamber before being cleaned in 1978 and fixed in its present position. This follows an edict from the time of Henry VIII that all churches should display the coat of arms as a sign of loyalty. A new coat of arms was usually put up when major building took place.
In 1877 wood block flooring was fitted by David Walker, architect. The cost was met by Mr John Torr and contributions from the parish. The north arcade of St Mary’s is Early English Gothic (Richard 1 to Henry lll (1189 – 1272) and terminates in the Stanley Chapel which is appropriated to the Stanleys of Hooton. In 1856 Lady Stanley made it over to the parish reserving only the right of burial. The entrance screen is carved oak, probably from the Early English period (1180-1275), which marks the first appearance of the English Gothic period which evolved in France. It will have been the work of a local craftsman. The Stanley’s were hereditary wardens of the Royal Forest of Wirral. There are small armorial shields containing a buck’s head (male fallow deer) on the screen together with angels on either side, their wings outstretched and kneeling in adoration of Christ. These are in keeping with those on the vicar’s stall.
The first stained glass window on the north wall of the chapel, installed in 1903, is by Kempe. It depicts the Birth of Jesus, Three Wise Men and Shepherds. The second and third, also by Kempe, show firstly The Baptism of Our Lord and next The Road to Emmaus. Above the altar, the window is showing St Andrew, St Peter, and St John by Heston, Butler and Bayne, installed in 1877. Opposite the first chapel window is a seven-light one by Edward Frampton, installed in 1900.
There are two altar tombs, one, in alabaster on the left, to the memory of Charlotte, Lady Stanley who died in 1662, and one of sandstone, in memory of Sir William Stanley who died in 1612. There are other memorials to Stanley family members in the church, also many generations of the family are buried in a sealed vault below. The altar table is marble, also the shelf (reredos) above it which is guilded.
On the right hand side of the chapel there is a grilled iron side screen which affords entry into the sanctuary. This screen was made by Phoenix Foundry in Sheffield and installed during the 1880’s restoration of the chancel. It was in 1859 that Miss White of Abbey Street, Chester purchased the chancel on the sale of her father’s estates of Sutton Hall. At that time it was in a dilapidated condition. The walls were out of perpendicular with ivy growing through them. The roof was greatly decayed and misshapen, also covered with the smallest slates requiring constant repairs. In 1863, under the direction of Mr John Douglas, architect of Chester, Miss White almost completely rebuilt the chancel, renewing all the south side, repairing the eastern gable and adding a new roof. Douglas’ church restorations were influenced by the Oxford movement which advocated moving the centre of importance of the church from preaching to the sacrament of the Eucharist, from pulpit to altar.
A southeast vestry and organ chamber, a lych gate and a screen in the Stanley chapel are attributed to Douglas. Further improvements were made under G F Bodley, an English Gothic Revival architect who, like Douglas, built and renovated churches. Whereas Douglas worked in Cheshire, North Wales and North West England, Bodley worked throughout the country. He was the leading ecclesiastical architect in England. Bodley’s work on the chancel included an Alabaster gradine. (a low shelf, behind the altar), side hangings, new tiling with a five tile border from Malvern Abbey, brass rails and standards. The altar steps were spread out also.
The window above the altar, the east window, represents the Life of Our Lord and was given by Mr Torr, MP in 1868. Bodley worked with his lifelong friend, Charles Eamer Kempe and later turned to the firm of Burliston and Gryllis founded in 1868. They both made stained glass windows for St Mary’s.
The windows in the south wall of the sanctuary portray St Chad, the bishop of the diocese around the year 664, and St Werburgh.
The Organ
To the right of the vestry door, at the back of two choir stalls, sits the organ which is concealed by a wooden door and locked when not in use. In a report by Church Wardens in 1882 it was reported that the £120 for the new organ had been raised. Rev Torr was paying the full cost of the addition of a new organ chamber and vestries for the clergy and choir.
At the same time a little more money was raised to remove whitewash that covered the church walls and which had verses from the scriptures painted on it.
In former days the church was much used for burials. Numerous Ecclesiasticals, both before and after the Reformation, were known to have been buried within the Communion rails. Immediately adjoining the Communion steps is the Poole Hall vault, thought to be of considerable extent, as the family were connected with the parish from 1220 to the death of the Rev. Sir Henry Poole in 1821. Across the chancel is the family vault of the Whites of Sutton.
The pulpit, on the left of the chancel steps, was originally three tiers. When the Protestant reformation came in the 1530’s, Bible reading and preaching became the most important parts of the service. The vicar, up in the three tier pulpit, would have looked down on the congregation. The lectern takes the form of an eagle, its strong outstretched wings supporting the Holy Bible. The talons cling to the top of the lectern indicating security. The eagle is able to cover the world in flight symbolising the Word of God travelling to the far corners of the world. Both pulpit and lectern are nineteenth century.
Down the chancel steps and to the left there is a large, ancient oak chest which formerly stood in the chancel. It originally had three locks, one for which the vicar had the key and two for the two church wardens. Each key fitted one lock only so that all three key holders had to be present to open the chest. This used to contain the parish registers after Henry VIII and Elizabeth I demanded that such records should be kept and safely stored. These are now kept in a safe in the vicar’s vestry. One of the exhibits on the chest is a jar which was a gift from Eastham Massachusetts, USA.
A pitch pipe and clarinet on display are the only remaining of the orchestra which once accompanied the singing. The clay pipe on the chest belonged to a church warden. The panelling behind the chest and forming the screen to the organ is richly carved and moulded. It contains carvings of the coats of arms of three Cheshire families – Poole, Capenhurst and Burton. In 1876 the pew ends from their manorial pews dating from about 1520, were removed and adapted to form the organ screen. To the right of the chest, facing the south aisle, is a door to the vicar’s vestry.
A brass plaque on the wall near the door explains the lengthening of the south aisle for the building of a vestry and organ chamber. The stained glass window, adjacent to the door, depicting Christ Blessing the Children, was designed by Shrigley, Hunt and Lancaster and installed in 1882. The one next to it, showing Raising of the Widow’s Son in Nain, is by Burliston & Grylls and was installed in 1892.
Bibliography
Budden, Charles W. (1922) Rambles around the Old Churches of Wirral. Liverpool: Edward Howell Ltd.